From the Ground up Week 3 – Bottom rope belaying

Climbing Indoors – Communication. Bottom rope belaying – taking in and lowering

It is good to get in the habit of good communication indoors, even when bottom roping as it becomes an essential part of climbing outside, as we shall look at later in the series.

At the start of the climb, when the belayer has taken in the slack, the climber says “That’s me”.

The belayer responds with “climb when you’re ready”. And it’s at this point that both belayer and climber should check:

each others harness; that buckles are doubled back and the waist belt is sitting on the waist
that the knot is correct and tied in to the right place
the belay device is loaded correctly, with the dead rope coming out of the bottom
the belay screwgate karabiner is done up and attached to the belay loop.

The climber then says “Climbing” and the belayer responds with “Ok”. Don’t feel too self conscious about this, as it is a good habit; there is often loud music in climbing centres and many distractions including scantily dressed individuals! It is also important when the climber gets to the top of the indoor climb and is ready to be lowered that not only do you communicate verbally using names, but you make eye contact.

Bottom rope belaying is mechanical; it is a series of movements repeated over and over again. The rope is loaded in the belay device so the ‘dead’ rope is coming out of the bottom.

The following applies to left handed belaying using an ATC, Bug, Variable Controller, Guide Plate or similar devices.

The belayer stands close to the wall, not too close that it causes neck pain, and not too far away that you are pulled into the wall should they fall. Weight difference will often determine this distance.

The belayer holds the live rope about head height with the right hand, whilst the left hand is holding the dead rope just below the belay device, creating a bend in the rope.
As the belayer pulls down with the right hand on the rope, he pulls up with the left hand, forming a close ‘V’ with the rope.

Starting and '3' position

'V'

To the knee

3. The belayer then takes the left hand quickly towards the knee, forming a bend of the rope over the belay device.

'1'

4. The right hand moves to join the left hand, but just above it – ’1′.

5. The left hand moves above the right hand (think of one potato, two potato) maintaining the bend in the rope – ’2′.

'2'

6. The right hand moves back to head height on the live rope – ’3′ and so the sequence begins again.

The whole process is reversed for a right handed belayer but once you become a lead climber, the position of your belay will determine whether you belay left or right handed, so it is a good habit to practice with both hands.

Lowering

When lowering, the climber reaches the top of the climb and communicates with

the belayer that he is ready to be lowered. The belayer takes the climber in tight by

repeating the above sequence until the climber feels secure, the belayer then moves

in closer to the wall, looks up and shouts “Ok, I’ve got you”.

The belayer moves both hands beneath the belay device, maintaining the bend in the rope and lets the rope run smoothly and SLOWLY through the hands. It is this bend in the rope over the belay device that creates friction and enables the action to be smooth and controlled. Both hands must remain on the rope. Lowering too fast creates heat which can melt the rope and burn the hands, both of which can result in an accident if the rope snaps or the belayer lets go of the rope.

Monster Climbs

trad and lead climbing experts in the Wye Valley and beyond

From the Ground up Week 3 – Bottom rope belaying

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