The gang woke up to torrential rain… Rain in Spain?

The weather forecast predicted more of the same. They were only there for 4 days. A lazy morning, it was hoped would lead to better weather in the afternoon. It was not to be. The team drove further north to Gandia searching for clear blue skies. It rained all the way, thick , black, disappointing clouds spewing forth tons of rain.

Everyone was disappointed. You don’t come to Spain for rain. Gandia is a beautiful crag, the potential for climbing is awesome but there was little dry rock. There was, however, light at the end of the tunnel and dry rock was achieved due to overhanging rock. That evening lots of wine and beer and pizza enlivened their spirits and an early start was planned for the following day.

The day was dry and warm and the gang headed to the Echo cliffs above Altea, south of Calpe and north of Alicante. The weather was perfect for climbing, not too hot, a high covering of cloud and a slight breeze. Bob and Julia were able to lead routes. Theresa, Chris and Kash followed many routes of varying difficulty in a most beautiful setting. The day was awesome, the Monsterclimbs team were able to teach and the Hook gang soaked it up.

An excellent preparation for a day on the 1000′ Penon. It was not to be. An early start saw the gang at the foot of the Penon by 7.50 a.m. and as they began to the approach along the walkway they were stopped by an irate official who gesticulated and spoke in rapid Spanish. Undeterred they continued to the crag. A few minutes later they were stopped again by a couple of English speaking officials, in climbing attire who informed them the Penon was closed as they were preparing the routes for a competition the following week and left the area and headed to Toix TV to give the gang an opportunity to develop their skills in lead climbing. The morning stayed hot and sunny.

In fact it proved to be a prefect day. There were opportunities for everyone to do their own thing. Movement skills improved, a leader took a fall, hard moves were overcome and everyone had a good time. By mid afternoon storm clouds gathered and the team was entertained by a powerful display of nature.

All too soon the last day arrived, a warm cloudy day. A day for reflection and progress. No-one wanted to leave. There is never enough time to go climbing. And the final words go to Bob and Theresa.

Bob Hook: Both Ali and Tony were amazing! Already planning the next monster adventure! I have learnt so much from you guys.

Theresa Peacock: I had a fab time, you guys are very good teachers and a lot of fun to be around. Thank for making it an amazing trip.

August 2007 found Tony and Ali back in the Alps and the attempt on the Monster Wall.

The weather was settled for several days and they decided to make the Monster Wall their first objective. Accompanied by friends Nick Gillett and Gavin Cytlau they set off in the early hours driving up the Val Ferret and beginning the long slog uphill to the base of the Pra Sec glacier.

The glacier was impassable, crevassed and susceptible to avalanche; it was decided to take a more circuitous route into the area via a steep, grassy slope above the glacier. The going was tough; all 4 had heavy packs stuffed with bivouac gear and hardware for 2 racks, not to mention enough water and food for 3 days. Soloing 100’ above the glacier on loose vegetated rock took its toll, and Ali was the first to crack suggesting that they roped up. It was hard work, clutching handfuls of grass, hoping their feet wouldn’t slip or their heavy packs knock them off. A 1,000’ later and they actually achieved solid rock, coming out above their intended first pitch. Searching for a bivvy site it was decided it was too late in the day to begin the route and they settled down for the night.

Up at 6 the following morning, they were on the route by 8. Climbing in two pairs, Tony searched out the way up the 2000’ face. The first few pitches were straightforward and they were able to climb together for 400’ saving a lot of time and effort. The crux pitch was awesome, a chimney, groove system that no-one climbed the same, but everyone found very strenuous and gooey. An easy bowl was to follow, and then a series of crack pitches that got gradually harder. A final slanting crack took Tony and Ali to the ridge and the end of the climb at pitch 11. It took 9 abseils to get back down to the bivvy site, taking some 3 hours. Scratching out cracks for nuts and pegs in the rock to find safe belays proved difficult work; one abseil taking an hour to set up.

Once down, the four quickly packed up and started heading back down. The descent took a different way scrambling to an abseil point and down climbing to the edge of the glacier. Night was drawing in by this time and considered too dangerous to tackle abseiling in the dark over unstable ice blocks.

A more uncomfortable night’s bivvy, with thunderstorms and rain throughout the night and Nick waking to find himself dangling over the edge of the ledge he’d decided to sleep on.

The abseil over the ice blocks and cliffs was awkward, but the ice more stable after a cold night and soon the worse was over and just a 2 hour plod back to the van, civilisation, beer and showers. A successful outcome with no dramas and La Fiesta de los Monsters in the bag.

Tony and Ali opened another route on the Eveque, a 10 pitch climb with a 3 pitch groove system; Checkmate. The descent followed a diagonal traverse for 500’ which eventually led to the abseil line Tony had set up in previous years.

Tony and Ali teamed up with Nick Gillett to climb a new route in the Pra Sec Aguilles area. A 900’ unclimbed peak, that proved to be a cheeky little HVS, with the crux pitch taking them through a chimney created by huge blocks of stacked slabs. The route was named for Luca Signorelli’s two children Francy and Vale. Luca is a close friend and local expert of the Italian Alps.Their final day in the Alps took the intrepid 4 into the Lower Freboudze and to a 5 pitch gem they named Sexy Beast. Each pitch was an adventure in itself, with wet crumbling rock, grassy groves, wet chimneys, slabs, a hand traverse and an overhanging corner. A brilliant end to an exciting trip with 5,500’ of new rock.