Warming up and cooling down exercises for climbing

I know that warming up and cooling down are important to my continued climbing ability, and yet I don’t always do it and I rarely see other people at the climbing wall or on the crag doing it.

I hold a Bachelor of Education degree in Physical Education, have taught it for many years, including GCSE and for those activities I have always warmed up and cooled down, and encourage everyone under my instruction to do so, and yet climbing doesn’t seem to generate a warming up culture. Outdoor climbers think the walk to the crag is enough and indoor climbers tend to start on easy routes, but even this often isn’t the case.

So why do we need to warm up before rock climbing?

When we climb we are asking the body to do far more than usual, lifting our own body repeatedly up a wall, often in contorted positions is pretty demanding, and we need to prepare it for this increase in strain on the heart and lungs, and the muscular and skeletal systems. It doesn’t have to take long, so won’t impede on your climbing time and will definitely improve your climbing session and your climbing in general and of course you will be less prone to injury.

Warming up allows blood to flow quicker increasing the oxygen flow to the muscles, preparing the body for the activity to follow. Production of synovial fluid is increased reducing the friction between the joints. Muscles are more elastic; reaction time is increased as well as mental agility.

Raising your heart rate is your first priority, outdoors you can make your approach walk more vigorous, or once you’ve dumped your rucksack, have a bit of a run, and indoors running on the spot, astride jumps, skipping etc will increase your heart and breathing rate. You know you are warming up correctly when you start to get out of breath. This in turn increases your body temperature which then enables you to stretch dynamically.

• Static stretching was always encouraged as part of the warm up but unless the muscles are at the right temperature static stretching has no benefit and may even have a negative effect of shortening rather than lengthening the muscles and could result in injury.
• Dynamic stretching involves vigorous repetitive movements that mimic the type of movements you will be doing once you climb; reaching the arms upwards and outwards, swinging the arms forwards and backward, the chest expander etc.

You will find as you repeat these exercises your range of movement is extended with each repetition.

Click on each thumbnail for full picture and description.

Click on each thumbnail for full picture and description.

For the legs, lifting the knees high as you run on the spot, and kicking the heels to the bottom ( not a move you would particularly do climbing but you need to stretch the muscles that work in antagonistic pairs – as one muscle contracts/ shortens the other lengthens/relaxes – in this case the Quadriceps and the Hamstrings),

Lifting the knees out to the side, whilst running on the spot, leg swings forwards and backwards and side to side, which not only stretches the muscles but helps to mobilise the joints.

By working from the ankles upward each joint can be loosened by rotating at least 5 times in both directions.

The shoulders need particular attention, as this has the greatest range of movement and although this joint is referred to as a ball and socket joint, it is actually only a shallow rotator cuff, and relies on tendons and ligaments for stability.

Finally choose a gentle route to start on, depending on the grade you climb, and progress through the grades.

If you are climbing outdoors and continue to climb during the winter, you may need longer to warm up and may need to warm up again after belaying or resting between routes.

Cooling down at the end of your climbing session is just as important.

Finish with an easy climb to aid recovery by removing carbon dioxide and lactic acid that cause the muscles to stiffen after vigorous exercise, and by slowly reducing the heart and respiratory rate. Suddenly stopping and packing up can lead to venal pooling in the skeletal muscles, which can lead to a rapid lowering in blood pressure making you feel light headed and dizzy.

Static stretching at this point is very beneficial as the muscles are at their most elastic. Begin at the top and work downwards, ensuring you work all the muscles, including the antagonistic pairs

• Deltoids/ Latissimus Dorsi
• Biceps/Triceps
• Gluteals/ Sartorius
• Quadriceps/Hamstrings.

Each stretch must be held for 20 seconds.

Good luck and happy climbing!

I have taken my children Gemma and Ben climbing on and off since they were little. Ben has always remained keen and climbs when he is able, but now a father of 2 little girls, (yes that does make me a Grandmother, shhh!) he doesn’t get the opportunity very often.

Gemma on the other hand has been switched off from climbing for some time. However, she recently started dating a new chap, quite the outdoorsman who having never been climbing quite fancied the idea. Tony and I gave him an introduction to climbing at Symonds Yat and he was quite terrified to start, Gemma took the opportunity to demonstrate her years of experience and secretly enjoyed his discomfort.

They have been walking in Snowdonia since and were drawn to areas where walking veered towards scrambling but were put off, thankfully, by the exposure, their lack of experience and equipment.

That’s where I came in. Needing some guinea pigs for my up and coming Mountain Instructor Award mountain day, we met in Llanberris for a weekend of scrambling.

Saturday was typical of summer Welsh weather – tipping it down with rain, but they were both up for it in spite of the weather. We headed to Cwm Idwal and Cneifon Arête, a grade 3 scramble. At the bottom we put on harnesses and I tied them in using a standard short roping technique, with one on the end of the rope and the other on an isolation loop, a good kicking distance away from each other. It had stopped raining.

They expected it to be easy to start, so were surprised by the difficulty and felt very exposed, but I kept the pitches short, and stayed within sight so I could encourage and help their ascent.

As they got higher the exposure became greater, but the climbing got easier and they became more confident. It was lovely to see how they worked together, having never climbed simultaneously before, and remember this was only Ross’s second time on rock, and they were obviously very much in love. I could see great potential here for the future. Was that wedding bells I could hear?

We reached the top just as it began to rain again and we were soaked by the time we got to the car, but it was worth it just to see the radiant smile on their faces.

The following day we ascended the north ridge of Tryfan, a grade 1 scramble, which we ascended unroped, with lots of spotting and encouragement. There was one tricky section that Ross struggled with, and Gemma lost her confidence, but we quickly tied the rope around her waist, belayed her via a solid spike and the difficulties were overcome. I was a very proud mum at the end of the weekend.

Tony and Ali have had 3 fantastic trips to the Costa Blanca in Spain during the winter months of 2009. Two trips were with customers and one a holiday – climbing of course.

The working holidays were all inclusive, and organised completely by the monsterclimb team.

Lou on El Dorado 1 on Raco del Corv

Chris, Helen and Lou, 3 friends from Gloucestershire planned their trip well in advance, but unfortunately Lou damaged her cruciate ligament the week before the trip.

Fortunately for Lou, because monsterclimbs is a two man band they were able to entertain all 3 members and even took Lou up several multipitch routes, always with a monster by her side in case of difficulty.

They visited the Echo Cliffs, the Penon, where Helen and Chris did an 8 pitch route, Toix Oeste, Toix TV and Raco del Corv, an amazing sea cliff where the routes traverse in and then soar above the sea.

The trio led and followed both trad and sport routes and enjoyed the amazing Spanish weather, usually very reliable at this time of year.

Tony on Ghecko E25b Castellet

Early December saw Tony and Ali taking a well earned break to spend 15 days in the Calpe area of the Costa Blanca. The weather was unseasonably cold for several days, in fact it snowed and the mountains got a dusting of snow, but Tony and Ali still managed 9 days of climbing.

As well as the usual venues, they were introduced to a new crag by Mark and Rowland Edwards, who had developed the routes. The crag is situated next to the Puig Campana and is called Castellet. It has several different areas with sport and trad routes of all grades and is quite accessible. The best thing about the area is it is amazingly beautiful and unspoilt and the rock is immaculate.

The gruesome twosome also visited Gandia, a sport venue, the Echo Cliffs,  sport and trad, and Toix Oeste where they discovered some amazing 44m sport routes on perfect white rock.

Flying back for Christmas in the UK, the couple were back in Spain for the New Year with the Palmers, a father and two sons wanting to develop their climbing  and especially their leading skills.

Ed, Steve, Ali and Jim on the Penon

Toix Oeste gave them their first taste of Spanish rock, where Tony and Ali were able to look at their climbing and within half an hour they were leading their first sport route. The Echo cliffs gave the Palmers an opportunity to lead trad routes, to create belays, to place bomb proof gear and to learn how to get safely off a climb, including abseiling.

Gandia enabled Tony and Ali to concentrate on their movement, and in particular their footwork.  There were also more opportunities to lead sport routes. The big adventure of the week was a 10 pitch route on the Penon.

Tony took Ed and Steve, and Ali took Jim on Diedre, UBSA a classic route, taking an obvious line up the middle of the 1000’ mass of rock, which includes a 15m abseil followed by a traverse in a spectacular setting. It became the favourite day of the trip as the Palmers learnt about stance and rope management, preparing them for their own adventures in the Lake District.

A different crag a day, their intensive trip gave them amazing confidence and developed their climbing skills to enable them to become independent and safe climbers.

Steve Palmer – For all 3 of us the trip surpassed our expectations in terms of our enjoyment of both the climbing and the company of Tony and Ali. From our point of view, it couldn’t have been better, an instructive and enjoyable holiday

New climbs in The Forest of Dean and The Wye Valley are becoming scarcer than hens teeth. With a new guide looming for the Symonds Yat area and its’ surrounding crags Ali and I decided to take a closer look.

First to fall at the start of 2008 was a very direct line up the wall to the right of Hole in the Wall at Symonds Yat. It climbs the middle of the wall past ok protection and finishes up the clean white wall above. We held a competition on the website to name the climb and decided on ‘The Penny Dropped’ from Robert Hargroves who won a day out with us. The grade has settled down after many ascents at E2 5c.

Still at the Yat in the beautiful Forest Of Dean we climbed a route up a shallow groove line to the right of Strathdon. We called this one ‘Tradnosh’ almost an anagram of Strathdon ! E2 5b.

The wall to the right of The Russian beckoned next and after a monster gardening session we uncovered the adventurous ‘Monsterific’. The grade of E2 5c tells the story.

The White Wall area at Symonds Yat in The Forest of Dean had a few gaps on it and we decided to investigate. We started off by climbing a nice direct line between The Last Valley and Run Robert Run. Excellent climbing and good protection. ‘Ego Warrior’ E1 5b was the result.

There was a tougher looking line in this neck of the woods that would cross other climbs to give a magnificent journey but could we link the pieces together. We started up Edward the First but left this at its’ peg runner and made a sweeping, right to left diagonal across the wall to finish up Motorway Madness. ‘Missing Link’ E3 5c was born.

Missing Link helped us realise that other improbable looking lines might be climbed and probably at a reasonable grade. There was an area to the right where 3 climbs existed but had become completely overgrown with ivy. After another long cleaning session a wonderfully steep line was exposed between these other climbs and although the rock is suspect in places we were able to climb a route at E2 5b. We called this one ‘Owl Capone’ after the owl who flew out at us from a hole in the rock where he or she had left a dead mouse.

A direct start to Mister Strathdon had been brewing in my mind for some time and after a quick inspection and the placing of two pegs for protection we decided to have a go. The moves through the overlaps felt desperate and although the pegs protected, it continued to be strenuous. We called it ‘Double Die Hard’ and gave it E3 6a. It has already seen many repeats and all agree on its quality and grade.

Afghanistan Bananastand

There were two more lines that needed our attention. Both at Symonds Yat in the Forest of Dean. The first of these was in the Bowlers hole area with the idea to take a very direct line up a hanging groove to the right of Lyndas Route. We climbed this on my birthday with my son Rob who is in the army and has served in Afghanistan. Although interesting this turned out to be serious and we gave it E3 5b and called it Afghanistan Bananastand.

Our final new route takes a very steep line above the tunnel exit in the Hollow Rock Area. Although short at E2 5b it packs a punch. We called it ‘Heroes’.

Tony Penning and Ali Taylor have just returned from a climbing and mountaineering trip in Italy.  The intention was to find new routes in Val Veny and Val Ferret, which with the help of perfect weather they were able to do.  Here’s Ali’s account of how they got on.

The first new route, Zig Zag on the lower East face of Mount Noir de Peuterey involved a 3 hour approach, 12 pitches of climbing, some of it very loose and vegetated, 8 abseils and a 3 hour descent. A good 16 hours exercise, which was a good warm-up for the main event.

The Ageing Gunslinger took us into the South face of the Eveque, a difficult, strenuous and serious eight and a half hour approach – 3,500 vertical feet, 5,500’ of climbing, scrambling and pulling on handfuls of grass. We bivouacked next to a 300’ ice patch which we had to cross the following morning,

Tony was wearing instep crampons whilst I was using kicking steps and a peg and nut key to make steady progress across the ice. The route was adventurous rather than good quality and eventually joined a route Tony had opened in August 2004 which led to the Tronchey Ridge. Six abseils and 200’ of scrambling got us back to the bivvy site and a welcome rest.

The descent was worse than the ascent. A maze of bottomless gullies and sheer grass slopes to the valley below. Fortunately we had built a series of small cairns to mark our way and managed to find the abseils from Tony’s previous foray. We were back down to the camper van in six and a half hours both feeling thirsty and tired with sore feet, the main priority was to take the rucksack off!

Our final adventure took us back to the East face of Mount Noir, where a modest climb of 6 pitches gave the best climbing of the trip with pitches of E3 and E4; Sorgente Pepper. And in conclusion 3 pounds lighter I achieved not only my 10^th and 11th new climb in the Alps but my 12^th too.

July saw Monsterclimbs once again leading Hillingdon in their Gold D of E practice expedition. The venue was Snowdonia in North Wales, a great challenge for the young people. Their four day route took in Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Y Lliwedd, Snowdon, Clogwyn Du and Clogwyngarreg.

Spot the group on their way to Snowdon via Afon Cwm Llan

One group experienced an impromptu wild camp at the foot of Snowdon due to deteriorating weather conditions, but Ali and Jonathan from the Hillingdon team ensured their night was a mini adventure, and added to their experience in North Wales.

Tony and Ali are off to the Alps again to try another dramatic unclimbed route on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc range.

Visitors to the website may be interested to know that Monsterclimbs very own Ali Taylor has been involved in more new climbs on this dark side of the Alps than any other woman in the world!

Ali’s new routes include one on the East Face of Pra Sec and two on the East Face of Point 3019 on the Eveque.   Ali’s hoping to add her 10^th and 11^th new climb this year.

Keep checking the website to read about their latest adventures in the Alps this August.

The Monsterclimbs team had a  challenge on their hands in July; to teach a teenage kayaking guru to climb and improve her navigation.

Tony and Ali had 4 days to train young Pamela in the basics of rock climbing and hill navigation. She arrived day 1 with her own top of the range harness, determination and an amazing sense of humour for one so young.

Unfortunately for the team the weather was typically English and it rained for much of the day at Wintours Leap. Pamela wasn’t put off by this and gave her best on the only dry route in town, Surrealist E1 5b. The weather didn’t give up and they had to retreat to a café and hot chocolate with cream, marshmallows and chocolate flakes. It’s a hard life but someone has to do it.

Day 2 took the trio to the Brecon Beacons, a glorious day for walking, navigating, taking bearings and hiding in the ferns. They bagged Table Mountain, Pen Cerrig-calch and Pen Allt-mawr before heading back to Gloucester. Pamela was an excellent hill walker with stamina, good pace and a brilliant attitude.

Day 3 was a successful climbing day in the Forest of Dean. Tony, Ali and Pam headed to Symonds Yat and climbed 5 routes in excellent style. Only her second time on rock, if you can count Wintours Leap, Pamela was a determined and skillfull climber. She learned many new techniques including bridging and side pulls, tied her own figure of 8 knot and learned how to lead belay, including lowering off.

Her last day came too soon and the happy trio headed for the Brecons once again, to tackle a smaller mountain, Sugarloaf, and give Pamela the chance to take a more independent role as ‘The Navigator’. Pamela has already achieved her Bronze Duke of Edinburgh Award, and is hoping to go on to do Silver and Gold. With her determination and developing skill she will have no trouble at all.

The weather forecast was atrocious but they didn’t feel a drop of rain until they were all safely back in the car at the end of the day when it tipped it down. Good timing eh!!

Sam Lewis: It just gets better.

Sam has become addicted to climbing since he took a monsterclimbs lead course early this year.

We had already taken Sam to Wintours Leap in the Wye Valley to introduce him to Trad/Adventure climbing and he wanted more. The weather was threatening but Sam was keen so we decided to try out the right hand side of The Great Overhanging Wall at Wintours Leap, which is often sheltered in bad weather.

It was dry but the easiest climb was the third pitch of Surrealist E1 5b. Once that was in the bag we jumped on Never Say Goodbye E2 5c trying to beat the threatening rain clouds. Sam loved it. The top pitch of Zebrazone was next at E2 5c.  The heavens opened and it poured with rain, but undeterred we waited it out and managed two more climbs of 5c.
Sam says ‘It was really amazing. Climbing is the best thing to do. I’m aching like hell. You two are crazy. Thank you. I just want to go more now than before. Each time I go it makes it better and better’.