Author Archives: alimonster

The Three Musketeers learn to trad lead climb

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The 3 Musketeers, Chris leading

Ali met Mike, Chris and Paul for a 2 day trad lead course at Symonds Yat after several email communications. They had little experience and limited equipment having done a first steps course, then taught themselves to sport lead climb indoors with help from a female instructor who felt sorry for them – they are all very cute!

It was Mike who contacted me and arranged the trad course after deciding – on behalf of his friends - that climbing outdoors would be far more exciting than indoor climbing, but felt that perhaps now was the time for a qualified and experienced instructor. Chris, a pilot with Ryanair had no idea what he was letting himself in for, but found climbing far more scarey than flying a plane!

Paul leading Golden Fleece

 Day one began with familiarising them with trad gear and the hierarchy of gear placements – natural limestone is great for using spikes and threads. Intelligent young men they quickly grasped the concept of good gear and began constructing belays and learnt how to top rope belay to bring the second up. By the end of Day 1 they had all led Golden Fleece with a few bombproof pieces of preplaced gear. Chris, the first to lead, almost gave up half way as his fears overtook him and he got sewing machine or Elvis leg (technical term!), but with gentle encouragement he persevered and was elated when he topped out.

Mike placing a Camelot

Day 2 began with the Musketeers using the guide book to try and find the Waterpipe Bay area, which they failed to do as they informed me they were just looking at the pictures and it was a while since they had read anything! The upper tier of the Waterpipe Bay area has an exciting approach and is a good warm-up. The first route – Seven Deadly Dwarves they led with only 3 pieces of preplaced gear, the rest they placed themselves, with Ali alongside checking their gear and offering advice. The 2nd route  – Rooting Toot had only 1 piece of preplaced gear and the 3rd route – Musta Bindun – they led on their own placed gear. By the second route, they were setting up belays at the top of the climb, belaying the second up, then setting up abseils and abseiling off.

Paul abseiling

As they all began to get more comfortable with placing gear, and doing so with just one hand – Ali was able to coach their climbing technique to save energy and make their movements and placing of gear more efficient. It was difficult trying to convince Chris that he only needed his toes on the holds and his tummy above his base of support rather than resting against the rock, but as the picture of Chris leading shows – he got there. Their final route – Farewell (very apt) was a little more challenging and made them use their feet well as the foot holds were small, with even a couple of smears, so balance and body position were essential.

 It was an amazing progression, watching Mike, Chris and Paul develop as trad lead climbers and great fun was had by all. And, of course, they had to take advantage of The Saracens Head pub for a well earned beer. Cheers Paul!

 ’Thanks Ali, it was brilliant.’ Mike King

‘Thanks so much for a great couple of days. Gave me exactly what I needed. Really enjoyed climbing with you and hope we can meet up again sometime soon.’ Paul Maloney

From the Ground Up – Week 13 – Abseiling and Recovering ropes

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Abseiling on 60m double ropes

If you climb on a single 60m rope and you wish to abseil back down the route you have just climbed, you can only abseil in 30m pitches in order to recover your rope. If, however, you have been using double ropes of 60m, then by tying the two ends together you can abseil 60m at a time.

Unless you abandon gear you can only abseil off a tree or an in-situ belay. With a single rope you would thread one end through a ring, maillon or karabiner, depending on the belay, or take one end around the tree. Then take the two ends together and feed them over the edge. If you suspect that both ends may not reach the ground, it is good practice to tie the two ends together to stop you abseiling off the ends.

Long tails, ends together

With double ropes, you thread one of your ropes, blue, through the ring, maillon or karabiner, or round the tree, and put the other rope, yellow, alongside the blue, with the two ends together. Making sure your tails are long enough, tie an overhand knot. The yellow rope will be the rope to pull to retreive your ropes. You need to make sure the free ends of both ropes are on the top so that when you toss them down the crag there is less likelihood of them getting tangled. It is good etiquette to look down the crag, if possible, shout ‘below’ before you toss them.

Overhand knot with long tails

The overhand knot is one of the easiest knots to tie, but its’ best feature is that it will roll over an edge rather than get snagged. Some climbers use a Double Fisherman’s knot but this has a tendency to get stuck on edges and it is difficult to untie after it has been loaded.

It is recommended that if it is very wet, icy, or the two ropes are of a different thickness a second overhand knot is tied to sit on the first knot. As with any knot, always dress it, i.e. ensure there are no twists.

Extended belay device with prussik attached to belay loop

Whether using a single or a double ropes to abseil, both sides of the belay device are used and clipped into a screwgate karabiner that is extended and attached to the belay loop. You may wish to safeguard your descent using a Prusik. The French Prusik is used below the extended belay device and attached to the belay loop via a screwgate karabiner.This avoids the possibility of the Prusik releasing if you choose not to extend the belay device and clip the screwgate into the leg loops – if knocked unconscious the body can twist and the back up prusik may slip up to the belay plate.

AMI Annual General Meeting

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The Association of Mountaineering Instructors held their AGM at the Conway Centre near Bangor, North Wales over the weekend 11th/12th February 2012. It was an opportunity for AMI members to get together as a professional body and discuss good practice, MLTB courses, Continuing Professional Development and AMI administrative issues. It was also an opportunity for members to take part in the numerous workshops run by highly qualified and experienced Instructors to learn new techniques, keep up to date with coaching skills and share ideas.

Coaching on steep rock

Ali attended the coaching skills workshop run by John Kettle. It was an excellent course where she gained new ideas to coach clients to imporove their climbing skills. It was also an opportunity to improve one’s own climbing skills and to learn the latest thinking on what makes an elite athlete – 10,000 hours of practice. There were links to gymnastics and dance, which had always been part of Ali’s background, so it was good to get confirmation that her ideas had good grounding.

The AGM took place on Saturday evening, followed by a buffet dinner, a slideshow by James McHaffie and finally a band.

The second day Ali attended a Provider workshop, attended by a cross section of experienced MLTB Course Providers. It was good to share ideas, agree on good practice and make plans for the future of MLTB. An excellent weekend.

Learning toTrad Lead Climb in the Wye Valley

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Stu contacted Monsterclimbs in the Spring of 2011 to book a course to learn to trad lead climb, but circumstances were against him and time passed by. However, everything comes to he who waits and 12 months later than anticipated, Stu completed a Monsterclimbs trad lead course in the Wye Valley.

After a very cold start to February the weather turned warmer and Stu met Ali at Symonds Yat for two days of instruction. The day began with a discussion of Stu’s experience to date and then a perusal of Stu’s gear – all very shiny and new!

Clipping an extended cam

Heading down to the base of the crag Ali got a good indication of Stu’s movement skills and dynamic balance by how he handled himself on the slippery descent path to the crag.

Once at the crag they immediately began playing with gear, looking at cams and nuts and the hierarchy of gear placements. Stu then constructed his first belay before mock leading a traverse whilst Ali critiqued his gear. He seemed to have a feel for gear placements and had an instinct for good gear outside the usual tunnel vision adopted by beginners.

Ali had enough confidence in Stu’s progress to enpower him to lead independantly with a few preplaced pieces of bombproof gear, and with the belay already in place. Stu’s first lead was in the bag – calm, confident and assured with good balance and accurate footwork. Ali was impressed.

His second lead had less preplaced gear and was slightly more technical. He hesitated at the half way mark when there was no more gear to aim for, but with gentle reassurance and the advice to look for the footholds, Stu placed a cam above and within seconds he was at the belay. His final lead of the day was totally his; no preplaced gear, no belay in place. The route – Trundlebum Rex - Severe. It was a textbook lead, the gear was good, he was relaxed, the single rope in a perfect line. The only wrinkle was the belay, but that was only due to the overkill, he was belayed to three trees, each of which could have held a herd of elephants. With a few tweaks and change of position Stu had the perfect bealy in a position where he could see his second and no elephants in sight.

Stu bringing up his second

Day 2 concentrated on using two half/double ropes to lead on, a completely new concept to Stu, but the standard way to trad lead climb.They looked at belay construction using double ropes and moved quickly on to leading. Stu took to double ropes like a duck to water and his rope work was excellent – creating two perfect straight lines. This was probably due to the quality of the student and the excellent instruction!!!!!

Moving to Bowlers Hole area, Stu lead Nansens corner, which he did in excellent style.

Check out that footwork

Ali’s only concern was the lack of nut placements. Stu had become so comfortable with placing cams that he had vetoed good nut placements in order to place cams. Stu was then ‘encouraged’ to lead it using nuts only and the cams were confiscated! His ascent was more thoughtful and the footwork precise and accurate. A good result.

Stu – ‘Thanks a lot for teaching me. It was a great couple of days’.

Stu is now in the process of purchasing his first cams. Ali has created a cam monster!

From the Ground Up – Week 12: Using fixed gear – pegs and threads, Using double/half ropes. Mock leading > Instructor by side > Strategic bits of gear

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Holding on securely whilst placing a cam

Placing gear on lead can seem daunting, but if you start off with easier climbs and build up you will make natural progress. One of the key elements of this is to feel solid and comfortable whilst selecting and placing gear wherever you are on the rock face and whenever opportunities present themselves. Be aware that if you place gear whilst established on a good ledge, there is a chance of hitting the ledge should you fall off just above it. You need to practice getting good balance and security whilst placing gear using smaller hand and foot holds. Placing gear can become enjoyable, trusting your own gear can enhance your experience of climbing and your confidence.

Ensure that when selecting and placing gear you do so one handed. There is a temptation when on a good ledge to use or test the gear with both hands, but this is folly, the gear could pop, you could overbalance and fall.

Good secure placements come with practice and experience, but it is always worth reading the manufacturers guidelines.

In situ threads

 You will often come across fixed gear on a trad climb. Natural rock threads often have bits of old tape or thin rope attached to them. Check the tape/rope for wear and colour fade, and, if possible, thread it with your own sling. Natural rock threads and spikes can be very solid and reliable runners, but check for cracks and hollow sounding rock.

Other common forms of fixed gear are pitons, or pegs as they are more commonly known. These often look quite shiny and new, but shouldn’t be confused with bolts. They may be very old and often embedded only by a few mm’s so if possible back them up with cams or nuts. It is almost impossible to judge

An old peg

the age, length or condition of the peg inside the rock and may even have been placed on the first ascent. There will be occasions when there is nothing else, but be aware of the risks you are undertaking.

It is more likely that trad climbs warrant the use of two ropes, as the routes tend to wander their way up the rock face, usually following a natural line. This allows you to place gear to the left and right of you without causing rope drag. Double or half ropes as they are known are thinner than single ropes, around 8.6mm in diameter, 60m long and of two different colours to differentiate the two lines of gear and to aid communication with the belayer.

leading on half ropes

Rope management becomes very skilful, especially if the route traverses to the left and right, and it is essential to clip the right rope into the correct runner without crossing the ropes or creating drag.

Belaying using double ropes is also very skilful, and takes some time to acquire. The trick is to keep one hand on both dead ropes whilst taking in and paying out with the other hand.

If you decide that using a qualified and experienced Instructor rather than going it alone, or relying on the experience of friends, you will find you are able to build up your skills and confidence quite quickly in a safe and controlled manner. It is usual for a trad lead course to take at least 2 days – and this is just the start of your learning. See ‘Monsterclimbs Events’ page for available courses. Depending on your prior experience you may at first mock lead, where a belay is already set up at the top and you lead the route on a seperate rope or ropes, placing and clipping your own gear, or some of your own gear and some preplaced by the Instructor.

A novice leader heading for preplaced gear

Your Instructor will be able to assess your ability and confidence and may encourage you to lead immediately with some strategic bits of gear placed for you to aim for, or she may set herself up on Jumars on a rope next to your climb,and assist with placements and check your gear as you place it. However you decide to develop your skills always try to do so in a safe and controlled manner and think how your actions may affect other crag users.

Sport Climbing in Sardinia

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Unspoilt Sardinia

Ali has visited Sardinia several times for both personal climbing and to teach and finds it one of the most beautiful and rewarding climbing areas in Europe. Sardinia is the Italian Island off the west coast of Italy and to the south of Corsica. The countryside is unspoilt and the towns and villages have the character of old Spain with very few high rise buildings but lots of variety of style, colour and orientation. When Ali first visited the island there were few major roads, but with the construction of motorways in the interior it is much easier to get around. It is just as easy to fly to Cagliari as it is to Alghero.

There is sport climbing all over the island and varies in intensity. There are short inland

Sea cliff sport climbing

crags, huge sea cliffs often with many pitches and impressive mountain crags that take all day to complete. All the routes are bolted in Sardinia, but the climbers who put up the routes have to fork out for the bolts out of their own pockets, there is no ‘bolt fund’. The bolts are often 25 – 30 feet apart on some of the bigger mult-pitch climbs which makes for a great deal of excitement, so it is quite useful to take a small rack of nuts and cams for those moments when the run out is just that little bit too big and your nerves have been strung out too long.

Sunny Easter weather

It is a climbing venue that suits most abilities and for the intermediate sport climber who is beginning to spread his wings its perfect. The Cala Gonone area is particularly enticing with 13 different crags in Cala Gonone itself and a further 10 crags in the near vicinity. The best months of the year to climb are April and October, the winter months are too cold – it even snows here and the summer months are way too hot. On the Monsterclimbs Sport Lead climbing course your climbing will be looked at in great detail including lead belaying, leading and clipping and you will be coached on technique and efficiency. You will certainly improve your confidence and may even improve your climbing grade.

Cala Gonone is quite a busy little town with many bars, restaurants and shops, and Dorgali which is just over the hill has a good climbing shop. The nearest major town is Nuoro which is accessible by a local bus service.

Sardinia is an amazing place to climb and enjoy, the flora and fauna is incredible and there are feral and tame goats everywhere you go. Its one place you would never get tired of.

You will be staying in comfortable self catering apartments in Cala Gonone within walking distance of local amenities. If you would like to book a place on the Sardinia sport climbing holiday, or have any questions or queries fill in your contact details on the events page, and  Ali will get back to you as soon as possible.

From the Ground Up Week 11 – Learning to Trad Lead Climb – Racking up, Placing Cams and Nuts – selection on lead and Creating Belays

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The rack in action

Once you have been tempted outdoors and begin leading sport routes, you soon realise that this type of climbing is quite restrictive. You can only climb where the bolts are. In order to develop your skills and experience more adventurous climbs on mountain crags and sea cliffs, you will have to learn to trad lead climb. Trad climbing involves placing your own protection on natural rock in the form of spikes, threads, nuts, camming devices and hexes. This immediately causes problems as to what to buy to start you off. You can learn by trial and error, or go out climbing with more experienced friends, or read lots of book s and check out the internet. The best way to learn, however, is to book on a trad lead course with an instructor with a minimum qualification of a Mountain Instructor Award who is a member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors. A good instructor will save you money in the

Constructing a belay using cams

long run as you will learn more on a 2/3 day course than it would take many years of experience to acquire:

Climbing venues, where to climb in your local area, the UK, Europe etc.

Creating safe belays.

Lead belaying using double ropes.
Gear selection and placement.
Racking up including selecting your own gear.
The latest equipment.
Route finding using the guide book and route finding on the climb.
Gaining the confidence to lead above protection -l earning to trust your own placements.
How to get off – walking off and/or abseiling.
Simple rescue techniques.
Warming up and cooling down techniques.
How and when to move up the grades.
 
If you decide to go ahead and go it alone the best way to start is mock leading. You will need a minimum of a set of nuts, 3 or 4 cams (or hexes) and a selection of slings. You can only mock lead at crags where you can set up a bottom rope on a solid belay. You will also need 2 single ropes, one for the bottom rope and one for the mock lead rope. It is always better if you can have 2 belayers as it makes the mock leading more realistic and is good practice for the lead belayer.

The trad rack: cams in size order, QD's at the back

The other essential thing is to start off modestly so that not only can you get used to placing gear in a comfortable position but are able to route find as you lead. It will not often follow the line of the bottom rope.
 
When you rack up for a trad lead you need to ensure you have enough gear loops on your harness for the extra equipment you will carry.
 
Nuts: it is best to have a selection of nuts, not necessarily of the same type, arranged on 4 – 6 snap-link karabiners. You may want to arrange them in size order or a mixture of sizes, as if you carry all your large nuts on one karabiner and you drop them they are all lost, but they are easier to select if they are in size order.
 
Camming Devices: it is best to have a range from small to medium large (the larger cams are more suited to gritstone) and arranged on individual snap-links, colour co-ordinated if you desire.
 
Hexes: again small to large on long tapes on individual karabiners.
* It is not usual to carry both cams and hexes, climbers usually have a preference. Hexes are cheaper, but cams have a greater range for placements, are more flexible and quite forgiving, but need more practice to make them user friendly.
 
Slings: 5 or 6 at 120cm for extending gear (with a combination of screw-gate and snap-link karabiners), particularly if you’re using a single rope and for spikes and threads. 1 at 240cm for big blocks or equalizing anchors that are a long way apart. Some climbers carry them on their gear loops, shortened by twisting, others carry them doubled across their bodies.
 
Belay Device: preferably carried on the central loop at the back of the harness.
 
Nut key/runner remover: carried at the back of your gear, useful for cleaning runner placements and threading slings.
 
Prussik loops:  thin cord used for added protection when abseiling and simple rescue techniques.
 
How you arrange your gear is entirely up to you, but it must be logical, suited to the individual and in such a way that it is easy to remember and access.

Place a bombproof cam

Place a bombproof nut

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Before you leave the ground, you need to have a good understanding of how your gear works, and one of the best ways of doing this is to create belays. You can usually put nuts and hexes into flaring vertical cracks and with practice into horizontal cracks and breaks. Cams are designed to fit in parallel and flared cracks/breaks, but to recognize a good placement requires practice and experience.
 
How to create a typical belay:
1) Place a bombproof nut.

Equalize in direction of force

 
2) Place a bombproof cam.

Link the gear with a 120cm sling

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
3) Link the 2 pieces of gear with a 120cm sling. 
 
4) Equalize in the direction of force (in this case your position on the belay in relation to the second) 
…tie a figure of 8 knot

Maintaining the tension...

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
5) Maintaining the tension in the direction of force…….
 
6) ….tie a figure of 8 knot.

Belayer in line with anchor and climber

belayer tied in with clove hitch via screwgate

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
7) Attach yourself to the belay using a screw-gate karabiner with a clove hitch. It is worth weighting the belay to see whether the gear holds/moves/comes out to see how effective it is - so long as you are on the ground if the belay fail you are completely safe.
 
Slings are also useful for spikes and threads – natural protection that is often the most reliable. A spike allows you to drape a sling over it and if clipped long it shouldn’t lift off, but it is worth checking that the spike is solid with no tell tale cracks around it. A thread is created by a natural bar of rock connected above and below, with often limited space behind it where you have to fiddle a sling through to create a very solid runner.
 

Dates for your Diary

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Monsterclimbs have a number of courses available on a limited first come first served basis. You can book by contacting us or filling in the form below.

Fast Track Beginners Course

There are 8 places available on these learn to climb courses, based at The Warehouse Climbing Centre, Gloucester. The course involves all you need to know to become an independent Bottom Rope Climber – How to fit a harness, choose and fit specialist footwear, tie in, bottom rope belay and learn how to climb – all for just £25 each including entry, and all equipment. Monday 28th May 1 – 4p.m., Monday 11th June 1 – 4pm. If you have a group of people who would like to do this course but the dates and times don’t suit use the contact form to arrange a date and times to suit,

Ladies Outdoor Day

There are 6 places available on the outdoor day based in the Wye Valley on Friday 1st June 2012. No previous experience required and all equipment will be supplied. Have you always wanted to try climbing but never had the opportunity? £50 per person. For further information see Climbing Instruction for Women only groups under ‘Services’ or use the contact form.

Trad Lead Course

There are still 2 places available on the two day trad lead courses based at Symonds Yat in the Wye Valley – 19th/20th May and  on 23rd/24th June 2012. Course costs £150 per person for the two day course. If these dates are inconvenient and you require a bespoke course don’t hesitate to contact Monsterclimbs.

Climbing Wall Award Training

29th & 30th May 2012 £130 including entry to the climbing wall and stickers. Minimum 4, maximum 6 people. Based at The Warehouse Climbing Centre, Gloucester. See Services: Climbing Wall Award for further information.

Sport Climbing Holiday in Spain – 2nd - 9th June 2012

Get away from this miserable weather and head for the sunshine. Clients must have some prior experience of sport lead climbing, and their own harness, shoes, chalk bag, belay device and helmet. Quick draws and ropes will be supplied. Maximum of 6 people – £400 per person. Price includes accommodation, 5 days of instruction and transfers to and from Alicante airport. The holiday will be based in Calpe, in self catering apartments within the town of Calpe with good shopping, restaurants and cafe facilities. There is also a lovely beach close by, and the climbing is in the Costa Blanca guide book. See client articles ‘New Year teaching in Costa Blanca’ and ‘Winter Climbing in Spain 2010′ for further information and pictures.

For further information on any of the above courses contact Ali 07814 55537 or by completing the form below:

Comments or questions are welcome.

*(denotes required field)

 

New Year teaching in Costa Blanca

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Ali was lucky enough to escape the drab winter weather over New Year with a last minute booking to the Costa Blanca. Giada (an Italian living in Switzerland) flew in from Milan, Ali from Gatwick and they met in Valencia. Arriving late morning they were able to get a few

Sunset at Toix Oeste

hours in during the afternoon, revising sport lead climbing techniques and getting into the leading mindset on ‘real sharp, hot rock’. Giada was nervous and seemed to have lost some of her self belief, reluctant to lead routes that were well within her grade.

Giada had ample opportunity to lead sport routes and to regain her confidence at Toix TV, the Echo Cliffs and Gandia. She also led a few trad routes, which are quite scarce in the Costa Blanca, but plentiful at the Echo Cliffs, and led 2 VS’s in excellent style. She also followed a few harder sport routes, the highlight being a clean ascent of Avispilla 6a at Echo 1.

Ali ready for guiding on the Penon

On New Years Day, when everyone else was still partying, sleeping or nursing hangovers Ali and Giada were up at 7 a.m. to head for the Penon and an ascent of Diedro UBSA, the classic HVS. It was originally a trad route, but since the terrible storms of Spring 2008 the Penon was re-equipped and the route is now deemed a sport route. But do not be deceived, if you climb at HVS and you only carry quick draws you’re in for a bit of a surprise as the bolts are widely spaced and the potential for hitting something should you fall is quite high. It is also becoming extremely polished. I once guided a very competent HVS climber on the same route and although he found the climbing relatively straight forward he was put off leading it by the scarcity of the bolts. It can be mentally very tiring, doing run out after run out. Some 100′ pitches only have 4 or 5 bolts, but you can carry a rack to supplement your quickdraws.

Giada did well on the 1,000 feet climb, and particularly enjoyed the last 3 pitches, quite a

Giada following pitch 5

gnarly, loose chimney with lots of threads, an 8m abseil followed by a traverse to the belay, a traverse follwed by a beautiful piece of face climbing on quartz pockets and a final exposed corner that attracts an updraught which usually results in your chalk bag being tipped all over you. The ascent took 6 hours – we went light with only quickdraws, 2 litres of water between us and some snacks, but it is still a good idea to set off early when attempting a big route. The fact that it has been re-equipped does mean you can escape at any time as the belays are good at every stance.

The walk off is quite long and nearly always slippy as the limestone is polished underfoot and often wet from condensation, but very beautiful and leads to the marina. The bars offer delicious cold beer and as it is the tradition to have a beer after an ascent of the Penon, we had a large one!!

From the Ground Up Week 10 Learning to Sport Lead Climb – Part 3 Leader Falls, Using a Gri Gri, Threading the belay

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Falling into space

Taking a fall can be very intimidating, and it is best to practice on a steep, overhanging wall, when 5 or 6 clips up, where you can just fall into space. Often when a climber gets into difficulty, she either down climbs and sits on the rope, or asks for a tight rope, then drops off.

Taking in too tight is probably the worst thing the belayer could do as he is taking all the give out of the system, and the climber will have an unpleasant experience which will put her off falling even more. You also see climbers struggling to clip high above their heads, which will result in a huge fall should they slip. Sport climbs are often ‘designed’ with a clipping hold to hand, so it may be better to push on closer to the clip and the clipping hold, and then should you slip the fall will be much shorter. However, the ‘clipping hold’ may not always be there, but the clue will be in the grade.

The belayer should always be vigilant. It is easy to be distracted, particularly at a busy climbing centre, and you never know when the climber will fall. A hold could spin, a hold could break off – a good reason to wear a helmet when belaying outdoors, so it is essential to be ready to hold a fall, you could save the climbers life. All too often you see even very experienced climbers belaying in a casual way, too much slack in the system, slipping the hand up the dead rope; the problem is just because nothing has ever happened doesn’t mean it won’t today.

When the climber falls off unexpectedly, the belayer will probably move inwards

Belaying with a Gri Gri

and upwards and the best thing to do is go with it and DON’T LET GO. This is all part of the dynamics of the system. Some instructors advocate the use of a weight bag or if outside anchoring the belayer, particularly if there is a weight difference, but this stops active belaying and restricts the give in the system should the climber fall.

 The Gri Gri is an excellent sport climbing belay device, but a lot of climbers don’t like it because if it is not used with anticipation and active belaying, it will be jerky to pay out to the climber. With practice, using the manufacturers’ instructions or from guidance from a qualified instructor it is very safe to use. It is essential that there is communication and co-operation between the lead climber and the lead belayer.

There is a negative side to the Gri Gri and that is when the lead climber falls off, the device automatically locks, which takes some of the dynamics out of the system. Its locking action has led some climbers to believe it is a hands free device. This is not the case. It should be used in a similar fashion to a standard belay device, with one hand always on the dead rope, and taking in using the bottom rope technique.

Lower off - Snap links in opposition

Lower off - Snap link and Screwgate

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once you reach the top of your sport climb, you have to clip into the belay before you are lowered off, and this differs inside and outside. Indoors you are generally faced with two bolts, linked together by a chain, with either two opposing snap link karabiners  or a snap link and a screwgate karabiner. If, once you have led it, you are either going to strip the quickdraws or your belayer is going to follow the climb, you must clip into both karabiners AND close the screwgate. If the belayer is also going to lead it, you need only clip one of the snap links as you will still be protected by all the quickdraws as you are lowered. Once you have clipped in, you must communicate with your belayer so he can take in before lowering you. If it is particularly busy you may want a visual signal as well, as your voices may not be heard.

Clipped into belay with sling and screwgate, and quickdraw

Outdoors, you may come across the same system, but is is unlikely and there are a variety of systems even on the same cliff. The following belt and braces system you could use on any sport crag in the world, but as you grow in experience you will make your own judgements at lower offs and use subtle differences.

  •  As you set off to lead climb have a sling attached to your belay loop using a larks foot and clipped to a gear loop via a screwgate karabiner.
  • As you arrive at the lower off, clip the screwgate into one of the bolt hangars if it is an expansion bolt or the bolt eye if it is a resined bolt, underneath any metalwork e.g. maillons, steel rings or chain.
  • Clip a quickdraw into the second bolt hangar and clip it into the sling you have just

    Rope threaded through lower off

    attached to the first bolt hangar.

  • Take enough slack to be able to thread the belay, tie a figure of 8 knot o a bight and clip to your belay loop using a screwgate karabiner. If the lower off fails at this point you are still protected by all the quickdraws below you as you are still on belay.
  • Untie your original knot, thread through the appropriate metalwork; maillons, steel rings at the end of the chain, the end of the chain itself, or the resined eye of the bolt!!!! and tie in again as normal.
  • You can now take off and untie the figure of 8 on a bight attached to your belay loop and ask your belayer to take in the slack.

    Being lowered off

Once you feel the rope tight on your harness, check it is threaded through the belay and that you have tied in correctly, remove the quickdraw and sling and communicate with your belayer that you wish to be lowered.