Tony Penning and Ali Taylor have just returned from a climbing and mountaineering trip in Italy.  The intention was to find new routes in Val Veny and Val Ferret, which with the help of perfect weather they were able to do.  Here’s Ali’s account of how they got on.

The first new route, Zig Zag on the lower East face of Mount Noir de Peuterey involved a 3 hour approach, 12 pitches of climbing, some of it very loose and vegetated, 8 abseils and a 3 hour descent. A good 16 hours exercise, which was a good warm-up for the main event.

The Ageing Gunslinger took us into the South face of the Eveque, a difficult, strenuous and serious eight and a half hour approach – 3,500 vertical feet, 5,500’ of climbing, scrambling and pulling on handfuls of grass. We bivouacked next to a 300’ ice patch which we had to cross the following morning,

Tony was wearing instep crampons whilst I was using kicking steps and a peg and nut key to make steady progress across the ice. The route was adventurous rather than good quality and eventually joined a route Tony had opened in August 2004 which led to the Tronchey Ridge. Six abseils and 200’ of scrambling got us back to the bivvy site and a welcome rest.

The descent was worse than the ascent. A maze of bottomless gullies and sheer grass slopes to the valley below. Fortunately we had built a series of small cairns to mark our way and managed to find the abseils from Tony’s previous foray. We were back down to the camper van in six and a half hours both feeling thirsty and tired with sore feet, the main priority was to take the rucksack off!

Our final adventure took us back to the East face of Mount Noir, where a modest climb of 6 pitches gave the best climbing of the trip with pitches of E3 and E4; Sorgente Pepper. And in conclusion 3 pounds lighter I achieved not only my 10^th and 11th new climb in the Alps but my 12^th too.

July saw Monsterclimbs once again leading Hillingdon in their Gold D of E practice expedition. The venue was Snowdonia in North Wales, a great challenge for the young people. Their four day route took in Y Garn, Glyder Fawr, Y Lliwedd, Snowdon, Clogwyn Du and Clogwyngarreg.

Spot the group on their way to Snowdon via Afon Cwm Llan

One group experienced an impromptu wild camp at the foot of Snowdon due to deteriorating weather conditions, but Ali and Jonathan from the Hillingdon team ensured their night was a mini adventure, and added to their experience in North Wales.

Tony and Ali are off to the Alps again to try another dramatic unclimbed route on the Italian side of the Mont Blanc range.

Visitors to the website may be interested to know that Monsterclimbs very own Ali Taylor has been involved in more new climbs on this dark side of the Alps than any other woman in the world!

Ali’s new routes include one on the East Face of Pra Sec and two on the East Face of Point 3019 on the Eveque.   Ali’s hoping to add her 10^th and 11^th new climb this year.

Keep checking the website to read about their latest adventures in the Alps this August.

The Monsterclimbs team had a  challenge on their hands in July; to teach a teenage kayaking guru to climb and improve her navigation.

Tony and Ali had 4 days to train young Pamela in the basics of rock climbing and hill navigation. She arrived day 1 with her own top of the range harness, determination and an amazing sense of humour for one so young.

Unfortunately for the team the weather was typically English and it rained for much of the day at Wintours Leap. Pamela wasn’t put off by this and gave her best on the only dry route in town, Surrealist E1 5b. The weather didn’t give up and they had to retreat to a café and hot chocolate with cream, marshmallows and chocolate flakes. It’s a hard life but someone has to do it.

Day 2 took the trio to the Brecon Beacons, a glorious day for walking, navigating, taking bearings and hiding in the ferns. They bagged Table Mountain, Pen Cerrig-calch and Pen Allt-mawr before heading back to Gloucester. Pamela was an excellent hill walker with stamina, good pace and a brilliant attitude.

Day 3 was a successful climbing day in the Forest of Dean. Tony, Ali and Pam headed to Symonds Yat and climbed 5 routes in excellent style. Only her second time on rock, if you can count Wintours Leap, Pamela was a determined and skillfull climber. She learned many new techniques including bridging and side pulls, tied her own figure of 8 knot and learned how to lead belay, including lowering off.

Her last day came too soon and the happy trio headed for the Brecons once again, to tackle a smaller mountain, Sugarloaf, and give Pamela the chance to take a more independent role as ‘The Navigator’. Pamela has already achieved her Bronze Duke of Edinburgh Award, and is hoping to go on to do Silver and Gold. With her determination and developing skill she will have no trouble at all.

The weather forecast was atrocious but they didn’t feel a drop of rain until they were all safely back in the car at the end of the day when it tipped it down. Good timing eh!!

Sam Lewis: It just gets better.

Sam has become addicted to climbing since he took a monsterclimbs lead course early this year.

We had already taken Sam to Wintours Leap in the Wye Valley to introduce him to Trad/Adventure climbing and he wanted more. The weather was threatening but Sam was keen so we decided to try out the right hand side of The Great Overhanging Wall at Wintours Leap, which is often sheltered in bad weather.

It was dry but the easiest climb was the third pitch of Surrealist E1 5b. Once that was in the bag we jumped on Never Say Goodbye E2 5c trying to beat the threatening rain clouds. Sam loved it. The top pitch of Zebrazone was next at E2 5c.  The heavens opened and it poured with rain, but undeterred we waited it out and managed two more climbs of 5c.
Sam says ‘It was really amazing. Climbing is the best thing to do. I’m aching like hell. You two are crazy. Thank you. I just want to go more now than before. Each time I go it makes it better and better’.

The Monsterclimbs team met the youth group from Hillingdon in Hayfield, at the foot of Kinder Scout in the Dark Peak of Derbyshire. At 8 a.m. the 3 groups were packed and ready to go.

The Dark Peak

A good start for their practice Duke of Edinburgh expedition. Day 1 took them up William Clough and onto Kinder Downfall, with perfect conditions of gentle winds and warm sunshine. They paced themselves well and reached their campsite in the Edale valley by mid afternoon still in high spirits and full of enthusiasm.

Day 2 was not so kind, the weather was poor, but it was warm with light winds. Their route took them up the steep and arduous Grindsbrook Clough and onto the edge above Edale and onto Derwent Resevoir. Their navigation was good, their fitness was improving and their motivation remained positive. By the time they reached their wild campsite above Lockerbrook Farm they were soaked to the skin, but within 30 minutes their tents were up and a hot meal was on the go.
Such was their success day 3 saw the groups monitored at a distance.

The monsterclimbs team was so sure of their progress and growing confidence. A misty day gave very poor visibility, yet the groups were up to the task and overcame some stiff navigation arriving at the pick up point well ahead of schedule. A successful weekend where the monsterclimbs team saw the students develop their skills and become independent on the hill. Well done Hillingdon.

The gang woke up to torrential rain… Rain in Spain?

The weather forecast predicted more of the same. They were only there for 4 days. A lazy morning, it was hoped would lead to better weather in the afternoon. It was not to be. The team drove further north to Gandia searching for clear blue skies. It rained all the way, thick , black, disappointing clouds spewing forth tons of rain.

Everyone was disappointed. You don’t come to Spain for rain. Gandia is a beautiful crag, the potential for climbing is awesome but there was little dry rock. There was, however, light at the end of the tunnel and dry rock was achieved due to overhanging rock. That evening lots of wine and beer and pizza enlivened their spirits and an early start was planned for the following day.

The day was dry and warm and the gang headed to the Echo cliffs above Altea, south of Calpe and north of Alicante. The weather was perfect for climbing, not too hot, a high covering of cloud and a slight breeze. Bob and Julia were able to lead routes. Theresa, Chris and Kash followed many routes of varying difficulty in a most beautiful setting. The day was awesome, the Monsterclimbs team were able to teach and the Hook gang soaked it up.

An excellent preparation for a day on the 1000′ Penon. It was not to be. An early start saw the gang at the foot of the Penon by 7.50 a.m. and as they began to the approach along the walkway they were stopped by an irate official who gesticulated and spoke in rapid Spanish. Undeterred they continued to the crag. A few minutes later they were stopped again by a couple of English speaking officials, in climbing attire who informed them the Penon was closed as they were preparing the routes for a competition the following week and left the area and headed to Toix TV to give the gang an opportunity to develop their skills in lead climbing. The morning stayed hot and sunny.

In fact it proved to be a prefect day. There were opportunities for everyone to do their own thing. Movement skills improved, a leader took a fall, hard moves were overcome and everyone had a good time. By mid afternoon storm clouds gathered and the team was entertained by a powerful display of nature.

All too soon the last day arrived, a warm cloudy day. A day for reflection and progress. No-one wanted to leave. There is never enough time to go climbing. And the final words go to Bob and Theresa.

Bob Hook: Both Ali and Tony were amazing! Already planning the next monster adventure! I have learnt so much from you guys.

Theresa Peacock: I had a fab time, you guys are very good teachers and a lot of fun to be around. Thank for making it an amazing trip.

August 2007 found Tony and Ali back in the Alps and the attempt on the Monster Wall.

The weather was settled for several days and they decided to make the Monster Wall their first objective. Accompanied by friends Nick Gillett and Gavin Cytlau they set off in the early hours driving up the Val Ferret and beginning the long slog uphill to the base of the Pra Sec glacier.

The glacier was impassable, crevassed and susceptible to avalanche; it was decided to take a more circuitous route into the area via a steep, grassy slope above the glacier. The going was tough; all 4 had heavy packs stuffed with bivouac gear and hardware for 2 racks, not to mention enough water and food for 3 days. Soloing 100’ above the glacier on loose vegetated rock took its toll, and Ali was the first to crack suggesting that they roped up. It was hard work, clutching handfuls of grass, hoping their feet wouldn’t slip or their heavy packs knock them off. A 1,000’ later and they actually achieved solid rock, coming out above their intended first pitch. Searching for a bivvy site it was decided it was too late in the day to begin the route and they settled down for the night.

Up at 6 the following morning, they were on the route by 8. Climbing in two pairs, Tony searched out the way up the 2000’ face. The first few pitches were straightforward and they were able to climb together for 400’ saving a lot of time and effort. The crux pitch was awesome, a chimney, groove system that no-one climbed the same, but everyone found very strenuous and gooey. An easy bowl was to follow, and then a series of crack pitches that got gradually harder. A final slanting crack took Tony and Ali to the ridge and the end of the climb at pitch 11. It took 9 abseils to get back down to the bivvy site, taking some 3 hours. Scratching out cracks for nuts and pegs in the rock to find safe belays proved difficult work; one abseil taking an hour to set up.

Once down, the four quickly packed up and started heading back down. The descent took a different way scrambling to an abseil point and down climbing to the edge of the glacier. Night was drawing in by this time and considered too dangerous to tackle abseiling in the dark over unstable ice blocks.

A more uncomfortable night’s bivvy, with thunderstorms and rain throughout the night and Nick waking to find himself dangling over the edge of the ledge he’d decided to sleep on.

The abseil over the ice blocks and cliffs was awkward, but the ice more stable after a cold night and soon the worse was over and just a 2 hour plod back to the van, civilisation, beer and showers. A successful outcome with no dramas and La Fiesta de los Monsters in the bag.

Tony and Ali opened another route on the Eveque, a 10 pitch climb with a 3 pitch groove system; Checkmate. The descent followed a diagonal traverse for 500’ which eventually led to the abseil line Tony had set up in previous years.

Tony and Ali teamed up with Nick Gillett to climb a new route in the Pra Sec Aguilles area. A 900’ unclimbed peak, that proved to be a cheeky little HVS, with the crux pitch taking them through a chimney created by huge blocks of stacked slabs. The route was named for Luca Signorelli’s two children Francy and Vale. Luca is a close friend and local expert of the Italian Alps.Their final day in the Alps took the intrepid 4 into the Lower Freboudze and to a 5 pitch gem they named Sexy Beast. Each pitch was an adventure in itself, with wet crumbling rock, grassy groves, wet chimneys, slabs, a hand traverse and an overhanging corner. A brilliant end to an exciting trip with 5,500’ of new rock.