It is well documented that I love climbing and other sports, and five years ago after months of suffering excruciating pain in my right hip, I was diagnosed with Osteoarthritis. Doctors told to come back in 15 years for a hip replacement.

As the pain got progressively worse I wondered how long I could take Cocodamol, Paracetamol, Ibuprofen and Tramadol to keep me going. I even suffered Anaphylaxia after a prescribed drug didn’t agree with me.  At the time I was working on a Duke of Edinburgh Expedition in the Lake District, and have never felt so vulnerable or close to death.  I was helpless from the time it took to get to Penrith hospital until they administered Adrenalin which brought my heart rate up from 44 to 98 within seconds, and my body into uncontrollable convulsions.

The summer of 2010 saw me struggling to walk more than a mile without popping pills and using walking poles. My Doctor referred me to a specialist and on August 2nd I was told the results of my x-rays and MRI scan and that I had significant wear on the right hip and he would be happy to do a Total Hip Replacement. Close to tears and bewildered by this news I agreed that was the way forward. The operation would be sometime in December 2010. Perfect this would fit in with the calendar in that December and January were slow months for Monsterclimbs.

As it began to dawn on me that this could be the end of my climbing career, I began to search for information as to how successful a hip replacement operation would be.  I was still very flexible in the pelvis, it was just very painful and I had difficulty walking.  Would I be better off?

I began to have second thoughts. I was gripped with this premonition of becoming an observer. I also had my Mountain Instructor Award to complete. I was running out of time – to make a decision for this year at least.

The Hip Replacement Operation

My pre op assessment went without a hitch in September, but I still hadn’t seen a consultant as regards my fears and queries, and after several phone calls I eventually arranged to have a consultation with the surgeon on 24th November; with the operation due to take place December 8th.

8 days post op. Ouch!

I didn’t see the surgeon, Mr Knudsen for my consultation, I saw a member of his team, who I won’t name and shame but his manner was such that I named him Dr Deeath.  No, he couldn’t give me any reassurances as to whether my condition would improve post op, he was only human and made mistakes. I could end up with one leg shorter than the other; I could be allergic to the prosthetic which would be unfortunate and terribly messy. I could die on the operating table! Yes, my physical fitness could help but wasn’t a forgone conclusion.

I left feeling pretty depressed, but I was doomed either way. My movement was becoming more and more restricted and was beginning to affect my climbing. I surfed the internet for information, and eventually found an article on Wayne Sleep, a ballet dancer who had undergone a hip replacement operation and was back on stage dancing Swan Lake 3 months post op. Was that possible?

I then found an American site that referred to athletes undergoing Total Hip Replacement.  It stated that your physical fitness, flexibility, muscle strength etc enabled you to return to your pre op fitness IF you followed a strict and progressive training programme.

I went into hospital on Wednesday 8th December 2010.  My surgery began at 13.30.  My anaesthetist Dr Twigg was an angel; gentle, reassuring and immensely skilled. I woke up at 16.30, numb from the waist down, my legs wedged apart and my lower limbs being electronically stimulated, and attached to a morphine drip.

Recovery and Physiotherapy

My recovery was such that by Friday morning they issued me with crutches, sent me up and down a flight of stairs and within 48 hours of coming round from my operation I was on my way home with a few aids to help my recovery; crutches, toilet seat, stool, shoe horn, foam wedge, sock assister and the gripper.

Two weeks post op

The pain initially was intense, with very little mobility. I had to use both crutches at all times and sleep on my back for 6 weeks. I had to assist my operated leg in and out of bed. I’m not one to sit down and do nothing and was looking forward to my physiotherapy programme and my planned recovery.

My first appointment was on Christmas Eve and was quite reassuring. I was given a series of exercises to encourage mobility and flexibility and to do as much walking as possible, with no more than 50% weight on the operated leg. I did my exercises religiously 3 or 4 times a day and began walking into Tewkesbury where I live and then further afield, building up my strength and stamina.

However, when I returned on 11th January I was in for a big disappointment. I had already surpassed the physiotherapist’s expectations and she had nothing more to offer me.

I decided I could manage my own recovery. That afternoon 5 weeks after surgery I went climbing for the first time. I began by bouldering gently, traversing mostly, just a foot or so from a padded floor, and only doing moves I felt comfortable with. I listened to my body. Although I was still officially on crutches, I found myself ‘forgetting’ to use them or just using one.

Climbing after the Hip Replacement Operation

Ali leading Edward the First E2 5b, 5 months post op

By the 6 week post op consultation I had abandoned my crutches, though I did use walking poles on walks over 4 miles. I continued to boulder, becoming more confident leaving the floor, but always down climbing and no jumping off. I led my first climb on the 31st January, though I did find the harness a little uncomfortable. By early February I was bouldering at 6b+ and by late February leading 6a. I was still wary of taking a leader fall. I continued to boulder and sport lead climb and felt my body respond and the flexibility and strength return.

On 7th March 2011, I led my first trad routes. It was like leading for the first time. The gear felt heavy, as did my body. I was so frightened of falling off before I got the first piece of gear in. Dislocating my hip was my greatest concern. I led Exchange, VS 4b and The Druid VS 4c. I was scared stiff and didn’t enjoy it. Was this the end of my trad leading life? I continued leading VS trying to build up my mental strength and suddenly I was leading E1 and then E2, and hoping to lead E3 by the summer.

I continue to improve and have begun doing yoga again, which is helping to reawaken muscles and improve joint flexibility, but my new hip sticks out further and my leg is slightly longer. But then again I have my life back.

It is now over 12 months since I had the operation and all was going well until in July 2011 I snapped my right achilles playing tennis. The injury was much worse to recover from than the THR as I was completely immobile for 4 weeks in a plaster cast and then a further 3 weeks before I could even think about weight bearing on my injured foot. It is now 6 months on and the recovery is going well and I’m back climbing and instructing full time.

North Wales - 7 weeks after Achilles Operation

It has been suggested that the snapping of the Achilles is directly linked to the THR because everything could be just slightly out. BUT I disagree. I believe that as my hip got progressively worse, I did less and less aerobic activities, just restricted myself to walking, climbing and yoga. Once I had the THR and all my pain disappeared I thought I was invincible and began bounding about everywhere. Playing tennis after an 8 year break would probably have resulted in a rupture of the Achilles regardless of the THR. What I should have done with hindsight is built up my aerobic fitness gradually, and progressed to playing tennis over a period of time. I have probably lost my chance now to play tennis agressively again, but have rediscovered cycling as a way to keep aerobically fit. The advantage is that not only am I working the Achilles and my still quite tight calf muscle but am exercising without weight bearing on my joints – a very good way of keeping my new hip maybe that little bit longer.

Warming up and cooling down exercises for climbing

I know that warming up and cooling down are important to my continued climbing ability, and yet I don’t always do it and I rarely see other people at the climbing wall or on the crag doing it.

I hold a Bachelor of Education degree in Physical Education, have taught it for many years, including GCSE and for those activities I have always warmed up and cooled down, and encourage everyone under my instruction to do so, and yet climbing doesn’t seem to generate a warming up culture. Outdoor climbers think the walk to the crag is enough and indoor climbers tend to start on easy routes, but even this often isn’t the case.

So why do we need to warm up before rock climbing?

When we climb we are asking the body to do far more than usual, lifting our own body repeatedly up a wall, often in contorted positions is pretty demanding, and we need to prepare it for this increase in strain on the heart and lungs, and the muscular and skeletal systems. It doesn’t have to take long, so won’t impede on your climbing time and will definitely improve your climbing session and your climbing in general and of course you will be less prone to injury.

Warming up allows blood to flow quicker increasing the oxygen flow to the muscles, preparing the body for the activity to follow. Production of synovial fluid is increased reducing the friction between the joints. Muscles are more elastic; reaction time is increased as well as mental agility.

Raising your heart rate is your first priority, outdoors you can make your approach walk more vigorous, or once you’ve dumped your rucksack, have a bit of a run, and indoors running on the spot, astride jumps, skipping etc will increase your heart and breathing rate. You know you are warming up correctly when you start to get out of breath. This in turn increases your body temperature which then enables you to stretch dynamically.

• Static stretching was always encouraged as part of the warm up but unless the muscles are at the right temperature static stretching has no benefit and may even have a negative effect of shortening rather than lengthening the muscles and could result in injury.
• Dynamic stretching involves vigorous repetitive movements that mimic the type of movements you will be doing once you climb; reaching the arms upwards and outwards, swinging the arms forwards and backward, the chest expander etc.

You will find as you repeat these exercises your range of movement is extended with each repetition.

Click on each thumbnail for full picture and description.

Click on each thumbnail for full picture and description.

For the legs, lifting the knees high as you run on the spot, and kicking the heels to the bottom ( not a move you would particularly do climbing but you need to stretch the muscles that work in antagonistic pairs – as one muscle contracts/ shortens the other lengthens/relaxes – in this case the Quadriceps and the Hamstrings),

Lifting the knees out to the side, whilst running on the spot, leg swings forwards and backwards and side to side, which not only stretches the muscles but helps to mobilise the joints.

By working from the ankles upward each joint can be loosened by rotating at least 5 times in both directions.

The shoulders need particular attention, as this has the greatest range of movement and although this joint is referred to as a ball and socket joint, it is actually only a shallow rotator cuff, and relies on tendons and ligaments for stability.

Finally choose a gentle route to start on, depending on the grade you climb, and progress through the grades.

If you are climbing outdoors and continue to climb during the winter, you may need longer to warm up and may need to warm up again after belaying or resting between routes.

Cooling down at the end of your climbing session is just as important.

Finish with an easy climb to aid recovery by removing carbon dioxide and lactic acid that cause the muscles to stiffen after vigorous exercise, and by slowly reducing the heart and respiratory rate. Suddenly stopping and packing up can lead to venal pooling in the skeletal muscles, which can lead to a rapid lowering in blood pressure making you feel light headed and dizzy.

Static stretching at this point is very beneficial as the muscles are at their most elastic. Begin at the top and work downwards, ensuring you work all the muscles, including the antagonistic pairs

• Deltoids/ Latissimus Dorsi
• Biceps/Triceps
• Gluteals/ Sartorius
• Quadriceps/Hamstrings.

Each stretch must be held for 20 seconds.

Good luck and happy climbing!

I have taken my children Gemma and Ben climbing on and off since they were little. Ben has always remained keen and climbs when he is able, but now a father of 2 little girls, (yes that does make me a Grandmother, shhh!) he doesn’t get the opportunity very often.

Gemma on the other hand has been switched off from climbing for some time. However, she recently started dating a new chap, quite the outdoorsman who having never been climbing quite fancied the idea. Tony and I gave him an introduction to climbing at Symonds Yat and he was quite terrified to start, Gemma took the opportunity to demonstrate her years of experience and secretly enjoyed his discomfort.

They have been walking in Snowdonia since and were drawn to areas where walking veered towards scrambling but were put off, thankfully, by the exposure, their lack of experience and equipment.

That’s where I came in. Needing some guinea pigs for my up and coming Mountain Instructor Award mountain day, we met in Llanberris for a weekend of scrambling.

Saturday was typical of summer Welsh weather – tipping it down with rain, but they were both up for it in spite of the weather. We headed to Cwm Idwal and Cneifon Arête, a grade 3 scramble. At the bottom we put on harnesses and I tied them in using a standard short roping technique, with one on the end of the rope and the other on an isolation loop, a good kicking distance away from each other. It had stopped raining.

They expected it to be easy to start, so were surprised by the difficulty and felt very exposed, but I kept the pitches short, and stayed within sight so I could encourage and help their ascent.

As they got higher the exposure became greater, but the climbing got easier and they became more confident. It was lovely to see how they worked together, having never climbed simultaneously before, and remember this was only Ross’s second time on rock, and they were obviously very much in love. I could see great potential here for the future. Was that wedding bells I could hear?

We reached the top just as it began to rain again and we were soaked by the time we got to the car, but it was worth it just to see the radiant smile on their faces.

The following day we ascended the north ridge of Tryfan, a grade 1 scramble, which we ascended unroped, with lots of spotting and encouragement. There was one tricky section that Ross struggled with, and Gemma lost her confidence, but we quickly tied the rope around her waist, belayed her via a solid spike and the difficulties were overcome. I was a very proud mum at the end of the weekend.

Tony and Ali have had 3 fantastic trips to the Costa Blanca in Spain during the winter months of 2009. Two trips were with customers and one a holiday – climbing of course.

The working holidays were all inclusive, and organised completely by the monsterclimb team.

Lou on El Dorado 1 on Raco del Corv

Chris, Helen and Lou, 3 friends from Gloucestershire planned their trip well in advance, but unfortunately Lou damaged her cruciate ligament the week before the trip.

Fortunately for Lou, because monsterclimbs is a two man band they were able to entertain all 3 members and even took Lou up several multipitch routes, always with a monster by her side in case of difficulty.

They visited the Echo Cliffs, the Penon, where Helen and Chris did an 8 pitch route, Toix Oeste, Toix TV and Raco del Corv, an amazing sea cliff where the routes traverse in and then soar above the sea.

The trio led and followed both trad and sport routes and enjoyed the amazing Spanish weather, usually very reliable at this time of year.

Tony on Ghecko E25b Castellet

Early December saw Tony and Ali taking a well earned break to spend 15 days in the Calpe area of the Costa Blanca. The weather was unseasonably cold for several days, in fact it snowed and the mountains got a dusting of snow, but Tony and Ali still managed 9 days of climbing.

As well as the usual venues, they were introduced to a new crag by Mark and Rowland Edwards, who had developed the routes. The crag is situated next to the Puig Campana and is called Castellet. It has several different areas with sport and trad routes of all grades and is quite accessible. The best thing about the area is it is amazingly beautiful and unspoilt and the rock is immaculate.

The gruesome twosome also visited Gandia, a sport venue, the Echo Cliffs,  sport and trad, and Toix Oeste where they discovered some amazing 44m sport routes on perfect white rock.

Flying back for Christmas in the UK, the couple were back in Spain for the New Year with the Palmers, a father and two sons wanting to develop their climbing  and especially their leading skills.

Ed, Steve, Ali and Jim on the Penon

Toix Oeste gave them their first taste of Spanish rock, where Tony and Ali were able to look at their climbing and within half an hour they were leading their first sport route. The Echo cliffs gave the Palmers an opportunity to lead trad routes, to create belays, to place bomb proof gear and to learn how to get safely off a climb, including abseiling.

Gandia enabled Tony and Ali to concentrate on their movement, and in particular their footwork.  There were also more opportunities to lead sport routes. The big adventure of the week was a 10 pitch route on the Penon.

Tony took Ed and Steve, and Ali took Jim on Diedre, UBSA a classic route, taking an obvious line up the middle of the 1000’ mass of rock, which includes a 15m abseil followed by a traverse in a spectacular setting. It became the favourite day of the trip as the Palmers learnt about stance and rope management, preparing them for their own adventures in the Lake District.

A different crag a day, their intensive trip gave them amazing confidence and developed their climbing skills to enable them to become independent and safe climbers.

Steve Palmer – For all 3 of us the trip surpassed our expectations in terms of our enjoyment of both the climbing and the company of Tony and Ali. From our point of view, it couldn’t have been better, an instructive and enjoyable holiday

New climbs in The Forest of Dean and The Wye Valley are becoming scarcer than hens teeth. With a new guide looming for the Symonds Yat area and its’ surrounding crags Ali and I decided to take a closer look.

First to fall at the start of 2008 was a very direct line up the wall to the right of Hole in the Wall at Symonds Yat. It climbs the middle of the wall past ok protection and finishes up the clean white wall above. We held a competition on the website to name the climb and decided on ‘The Penny Dropped’ from Robert Hargroves who won a day out with us. The grade has settled down after many ascents at E2 5c.

Still at the Yat in the beautiful Forest Of Dean we climbed a route up a shallow groove line to the right of Strathdon. We called this one ‘Tradnosh’ almost an anagram of Strathdon ! E2 5b.

The wall to the right of The Russian beckoned next and after a monster gardening session we uncovered the adventurous ‘Monsterific’. The grade of E2 5c tells the story.

The White Wall area at Symonds Yat in The Forest of Dean had a few gaps on it and we decided to investigate. We started off by climbing a nice direct line between The Last Valley and Run Robert Run. Excellent climbing and good protection. ‘Ego Warrior’ E1 5b was the result.

There was a tougher looking line in this neck of the woods that would cross other climbs to give a magnificent journey but could we link the pieces together. We started up Edward the First but left this at its’ peg runner and made a sweeping, right to left diagonal across the wall to finish up Motorway Madness. ‘Missing Link’ E3 5c was born.

Missing Link helped us realise that other improbable looking lines might be climbed and probably at a reasonable grade. There was an area to the right where 3 climbs existed but had become completely overgrown with ivy. After another long cleaning session a wonderfully steep line was exposed between these other climbs and although the rock is suspect in places we were able to climb a route at E2 5b. We called this one ‘Owl Capone’ after the owl who flew out at us from a hole in the rock where he or she had left a dead mouse.

A direct start to Mister Strathdon had been brewing in my mind for some time and after a quick inspection and the placing of two pegs for protection we decided to have a go. The moves through the overlaps felt desperate and although the pegs protected, it continued to be strenuous. We called it ‘Double Die Hard’ and gave it E3 6a. It has already seen many repeats and all agree on its quality and grade.

Afghanistan Bananastand

There were two more lines that needed our attention. Both at Symonds Yat in the Forest of Dean. The first of these was in the Bowlers hole area with the idea to take a very direct line up a hanging groove to the right of Lyndas Route. We climbed this on my birthday with my son Rob who is in the army and has served in Afghanistan. Although interesting this turned out to be serious and we gave it E3 5b and called it Afghanistan Bananastand.

Our final new route takes a very steep line above the tunnel exit in the Hollow Rock Area. Although short at E2 5b it packs a punch. We called it ‘Heroes’.